Stoves Buying Guide

The heat output of wood-burning and multi fuel stoves is measured in kilowatts. You can use our stove wattage calculator to work out how many kilowatts will be required to heat your room. All you have to do is enter the dimensions of your room, and the calculator will return the ideal wattage for comfortable heating. Then you just need to find a stove with an equivalent wattage.

The calculator is intended to give a rule of thumb only, so don’t worry too much if you can only find stoves with a slightly higher or lower wattage than your recommended wattage.

Unlike with electric appliances, a stove’s heat output rating is a nominal rather than an exact figure. The output of the stove will vary depending on the type and quantity of the fuel used, and manufacturers are not always consistent in the tests they perform to derive a nominal heat output. It’s always worth checking the stove’s operating manual before purchasing for more information on the maximum heat outputs achievable with different types of fuel. Operating manuals for all our stoves can be found in the installation section of each product page.

Stoves Larger Than 5kW

Please be aware that stoves larger than 5kW are subject to additional building regulations regarding ventilation. This is because these stoves require a higher volume of air to operate than is available in rooms with ordinary levels of ventilation. The size of your vent should be 550mm² for every kW over which you exceed the 5kW cut off.
Stoves smaller than 5kW do not normally require additional ventilation unless your house is entirely airtight. Homes built before 2008 are unlikely to be airtight unless they have been fully insulated, double-glazed and draught-proofed throughout. Homes built after 2008 should have an air permeability test before the stove is installed. A HETAS registered installer will be fully versed in these regulations and should be able fit any necessary ventilation as part of your installation.

On a more obvious note, it’s also important to make sure the stove you order is not too large for the recess in which it will be placed. Building regulations state that a distance of 450mm should always be maintained between your stove and any combustible materials. However, the distance which should be maintained between your stove and non-combustible materials such as brick is not dictated by law.

Some manufacturers will have specific guidelines detailing the recommended distance from non-combustibles which should be maintained around their stove. Where this information is given, it will be found within the stove’s user manual. If no guidelines are given, we always recommend leaving at least 80mm to allow heat to circulate around the stove.

All stoves require a flue to deliver exhaust gases out of your stove and into your flue pipe or chimney. The size of the flue required by your stove will depend on the diameter of the stove’s flue outlet. Your flue can be larger but must never be smaller than the outlet diameter. Most stoves have outlet diameters of 5 inches (125mm) or 6 inches (150mm).

When you buy a stove at Heatingpoint, you can click the “add a flue” option when you add the stove to your basket. This will automatically add the correct sized flue to your basket.

It’s a common misconception that wood-burning stoves are the only stoves suitable for burning wood. In fact, wood-burning stoves are so named only because they can’t be used to burn anything else!

Unlike multi-fuel stoves, wood-burning stoves cannot be used to burn coal and other solid fuels. They can only be used to burn wood-based fuels such as logs, briquettes, chips and pellets. This is because wood-burning stoves do not have an ash pan. Wood only requires oxygen from above to achieve a healthy burn, and can burn quite happily on a bed of ash, but coal and other solid fuels require a constant supply of oxygen from below to burn properly. This means an ash pan is required to clear away the ash and maintain a supply of oxygen to the base of the firebox.

You should only choose a wood-burning stove if you are confident you will never want to use your stove to burn solid fuels such as coal and anthracite.

There are advantages to choosing a wood-burning stove, and indeed they are particularly popular in Europe although less so in the UK. Not having an ashpan allows the firebox to be larger, which means the stove can burn for longer before it needs to be re-fuelled. However, you will need to clean out your stove once a week to remove excess ash.

Multi-fuel stoves can be used to burn both wood and coal based fuels – although not at the same time!

All multi-fuel stoves come with an ash pan that provides the necessary draught of air at the base of the firebox required to burn coal. Whilst this does mean the firebox is smaller, it is also easier to clean out because the ash pan can be removed and emptied.

Multi-fuel stoves are a more popular choice in the UK because they offer the flexibility of burning a wide variety of fuels.

Most wood-burning and multi-fuel stoves are freestanding. They can be installed within a pre-existing fireplace, or placed on a suitable hearth and fitted with a twin wall internal flue. Freestanding stoves offer the most flexibility of any stove installation, so tend to be the most popular. They are also more efficient than inset stoves because there is more scope for air to move around the stove and encourage heat circulation around the room.

Inset stoves are designed to fit within existing fireplaces. They tend to be the easiest stoves to install because they use the pre-existing chimney rather than require a new internal flue. Inset stoves are popular in smaller rooms because they take up less space. However, they also tend to be more expensive and marginally less efficient. This is because there is less scope for air to circulate around the stove and boost heat circulation. Inset stoves can only be used in stone fireplaces; marble effect hearths and other materials that contain resin can melt and become damaged if used with an inset stove. Always check with a HETAS registered installer to ensure proper distance from combustibles is maintained to comply with building regulations.

More popularly known as “DEFRA approved”, DEFRA exempt stoves have been tested and cleared by DEFRA to be used for wood burning even if you live in a Smoke Control Area. Stoves which are not DEFRA approved can only be used in Smoke Control Areas if you are burning fuels on DEFRA’s authorised fuels list, which includes anthracite, semi-anthracite, gas and low volatile steam coal.

Stoves can gain DEFRA exemption by demonstrating to DEFRA that they use Clean Burn technology, which ensures that wood is burned cleanly and efficiently with minimal smoke production. Be careful when choosing a stove for a Smoke Control Area – some manufacturers will describe their products as “Clean Burn” even though they are not DEFRA exempt. Always look for the DEFRA exempt terminology or a DEFRA exempt badge, or check that the stove appears on DEFRA’s list of authorised appliances. At Heatingpoint, you can go straight to our DEFRA approved stoves category.

One disadvantage to having a larger stove fitted in your home is that your room will need to be equipped with additional ventilation. This can cause draughts and make your home less efficient when the stove is not in use. External air stoves get around this problem by using a direct air supply which feeds into the rear of the stove from an outside vent. This gives the stove access to a limitless supply of oxygen without creating draughts and air circulation inside the room. This also makes the stove operate more efficiently, because it uses unheated air from outside rather than consuming the warm air it has produced. External air stoves are ideal in air tight rooms that don’t have the ready supply of air required to feed the stove. They are also a good choice in rooms which have extractor fans.

Double fronted stoves are two-faced – literally! These stoves have windowed front hearths at the front and the rear of the stove which allow you to see the flames from all angles. Double fronted stoves can be used to heat two rooms at once, or can be used on a central hearth in large, open rooms. They are particularly popular in pubs and open-plan living spaces, providing a cosy and inviting centre to the room.

Boiler stoves connect to a back boiler to provide hot water as well as room heating. They give homeowners the opportunity to become entirely self-sufficient: less reliant on gas or electricity with both their hot water and heating fired by their stove. There are obvious logistical obstacles when using a boiler stove – your stove must be fuelled and burning to heat your water, which can pose a challenge for your morning shower! But they work well paired with solar panels in homes that strive for true self-sufficiency. Boiler stoves are more complicated and expensive to install than ordinary stoves.

Pellet stoves offer a modern take on traditional wood burning using an automated fuelling mechanism. Where an ordinary wood-burning stove must be fuelled by hand and monitored whilst it burns, a pellet stove is fully automated, using an electric-powered feeding system to keep the stove topped up with pellets of compressed wood. This provides an exceptionally efficient system which can be used throughout the day for your heating and hot water. Like boiler stoves, pellet stoves work well in conjunction with solar panels, which can be used to power the electric feeding system. Pellet stoves offer much more control over temperatures than regular stoves, and make it easier to enjoy heated water throughout the day.

The first thing to establish is whether you do live in a Smoke Control Area. At the time of writing, the government have not made this information publicly available, so the only way to check is to contact your local authority. DEFRA (The Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs) have an archived copy of a map of Smoke Control Areas which shows which local authorities contain areas which are smoke controlled. However, this resource is no longer updated so if you’re in any doubt you should always check with your local authority before choosing a stove.

Many stoves are suitable for use in Smoke Control Areas provided you only burn fuels from a limited list of authorised fuels that does not include wood. Only DEFRA Exempt Stoves can be used to burn wood in a Smoke Control Area. Popularly and inaccurately known as “smoke exempt” or “DEFRA approved” stoves, these stoves have been tested by DEFRA and approved for use with exempt fuels such as wood. Your choice of fuels will still be restricted to those which are listed as suitable fuels in the stove user manual.

Manufacturers can obtain DEFRA approval for their stoves by demonstrating to DEFRA that the stove uses Clean Burn technology to ensure that wood is burnt without smoke. Stoves with Clean Burn technology are designed such that they can never be cut off from their oxygen supply, forcing the fuel to burn cleanly and efficiently until it is depleted. Stoves with Clean Burn cannot be shut off like regular stoves; they will continue to burn at a low level until all the fuel has been consumed.

Not all stoves which boast Clean Burn technology are also DEFRA exempt. This is often true of stoves manufactured in Europe or further afield which have simply not been presented for testing. Be careful when choosing a stove for a Smoke Control Area – a Clean Burn stove is no substitute for a DEFRA exempt stove. You can only burn wood legally in a Smoke Control Area if your stove is DEFRA exempt. If in doubt, check DEFRA’s exempt stoves list to make sure your chosen stove is featured. On Heatingpoint, you can just head for our DEFRA approved stoves category.

If your stove has not been approved by DEFRA to burn wood in your area, you will only be able to burn fuels from their list of approved fuels. This list includes gas and various types of smokeless coal. Your only other option is to replace the stove with a DEFRA exempt stove.

At the time of writing, the full building regulations for wood-burning and multi-fuel stoves can be found in Document J, a government publication which covers all the regulations for combustion appliances and fuel storage systems.

Some of the areas the regulations cover include:

• Ventilation required for stoves of a certain size
• Size, height and position of the flue
• Size, position and material of the hearth
• Strength of flue or chimney draught
• Proximity of combustible materials to the stove and flue
• Storage of liquid fuels
• Notice plate and documentation required
• Carbon monoxide detector requirement and placement

At 92 pages, this document is not an easy read! However, all HETAS certified installers are required to be fully versed in the relevant regulations, so you should defer to their guidance if you have any questions about installation before making your purchase.

HETAS stands for “Heating Equipment Testing & Approval Scheme” and is the official body recognised by the government to authorise stove appliances, installers and other stove-related services. HETAS are responsible for assessing and registering competent installers, retailers and chimney sweeps.

HETAS registered installers can self-certify that their work meets current building regulations. If you do not have your stove fitted by a HETAS registered installer, you will need to have the work certified by your local council. Without a certificate of approval, you will be unable to sell your house or get home insurance.

To become HETAS registered, stove installers must be able to demonstrate their competence by completing HETAS approved courses which test their knowledge of current building regulations as well as their practical skills. A HETAS registered installer will be able to plan your installation for you, as well as undertake all the work involved. Most installers will also be able to source all the parts required to fit your stove, including flue liner sections, vents, pipe adaptors and chimney cowls. You can search for registered installers in your area using the postcode search function on the HETAS website.

Some stove retailers will tell you that their stoves are suitable for DIY installation. However, the risks of installing your stove incorrectly are so severe, they can even be fatal. We urge all our customers not to take the risk and always use a HETAS registered installer for stove installation.

Here are just some of the risks posed by a badly installed stove:

• Carbon monoxide poisoning – an invisible and odourless gas than can kill you in your sleep if exhaust gases escape from your chimney
• Chimney fires
• Degradation of your chimney and flue liner
• Difficulty cleaning your stove or having your chimney swept
• Stove working inefficiently
• Inability to sell your house – stove must be certified before you can sell
• Inability to get home insurance – stove must be certified before you can apply
• Expense of having your stove inspected, re-installed or replaced
• Voiding of your stove warranty

If in any doubt, always leave stove installation to the professionals – it’s not worth the risk.

If you already have a chimney, you may well be able to use it as the exit conduit for your stove’s exhaust gases. However, you will need to ensure your chimney is in good condition, and may want to consider a flue liner to improve your stove’s efficiency.

There are a number of building regulations which govern the size and condition of your chimney if you want to use it to carry exhaust gases from your stove. The chimney must be between 150mm and 230mm in diameter and fully air tight. A HETAS registered installer can perform a test to check that your chimney meets all necessary regulations and is in good condition. This is done by sealing up the chimney and monitoring the room for escaped gases. Masonry chimneys can be damaged by the long-term effects of hot and corrosive combustion chemicals, so do not assume your chimney is safe even if it has been used in the past.

If your chimney is suitable for use, your installer will simply place the stove in the fireplace, extend the stove’s flue pipe into the chimney and seal off the void around the flue with bricks or a steel register plate. However, many installers prefer to fit stoves with a chimney liner as an added layer of protection against potentially fatal gas leaks.

Chimney liners

If your chimney is not up to scratch, it will need to be fitted with a chimney liner. Chimney liners fit inside your chimney and feed all the way from your stove outlet flue to your chimney pot. Chimney liners are most commonly made of stainless steel, although they are also available in clay, ceramic or pumice.

Even if your chimney is in good condition, there are still benefits to fitting your stove with a chimney liner. A liner will prevent the build-up of waste products in your chimney, which in turn reduces the risk of chimney fires and increases the stove’s efficiency. They also provide invaluable peace of mind, making it even harder for exhaust gases to escape into the room.

Always use a HETAS approved flue liner in your chimney – or at least, make sure your fitter has chosen one! It’s the installer’s responsibility to choose the right flue liner for the job. Use the wrong size liner and there may be excessive soot build-up in the flue. You may also need a different kind of flue depending on whether you’ve got a wood-burning or multi-fuel stove. Flue liners should only be installed by a qualified installer.

You don’t need a chimney to have a stove, but you will still need to make provision for removing waste gases. There are two main ways to do this: install a twin wall flue, or build a new chimney.

Installing a twin wall flue is the cheapest and easiest way to install a stove in a house with no chimney. A twin wall flue can be passed through walls and ceilings to vent exhaust gases from your rooftop. The flue is made up of two layers of stainless steel with a layer of insulation in between. The layer of insulation is required to keep the surface temperature of the flue low and the internal temperature high. Keeping the external temperature low is essential because your flue will pose a fire risk as it passes through your walls if it gets hot. This also protects the occupants of the house from burns. Keeping the internal temperature high prevents gases condensing in your flue. Condensing gases leave behind tar and creosote which can corrode your flue and increase the risk of chimney fires. Twin wall flues come in a variety of configurations to suit houses of all shapes, sizes and orientations. Installing a twin wall flue is cheaper and easier than building a new chimney.

Building a new chimney is an expensive and time-consuming option, but you may consider it worth the investment if you want to create a traditional hearthside that looks authentic. Adding a chimney will cost upwards of £2000 and will reduce the size of your rooms.

All chimney and flue installations should be carried out by a HETAS approved chimney installer.

You should not normally need planning permission to have a stove fitted. However, if you are intending to have a flue running out of an external wall and live in a listed building, there may be some restrictions. Always check with your local planning department if you’re at all unsure.

When you use your stove for the first time, you should start off by lighting a small wood fire to break-in the stove. This will allow the paint to cure and the castings to relax and consolidate. The paint may produce a strong smell and some smoke, however this is non-toxic and will eventually subside. At this point the paintwork on your stove may be soft and prone to scuffing so try to touch it as little as possible. After three smaller wood fires, you can gradually increase the fuel quantity and duration of burn until the stove can comfortably operate at full output.

Starting your fire

Firstly, you will need to load the stove with starting fuel. Newspaper makes an excellent fire starter but firelighters can also be used to produce the same effect. Avoid using other types of paper, such as glossy magazines, as these contain chemicals which can produce toxic fumes when combusted. If you plan to use newspaper, lightly scrunch the paper into balls and then place lengths of dry kindling on top. Above the kindling, place some larger logs that will be your main fuel source. Be aware that balls of newspaper have to potential to ‘float’ up the chimney on hot air currents and have caused chimney fires in the past. Always be vigilant around your fire and place your kindling and fuel on top of the paper to help prevent this from happening.

Open both the primary and secondary air vents and then light the newspaper from the bottom. Some models of stove will work better if the stove door is slightly ajar when lighting your fire, however always refer to the instruction manual provided with your product for the best way of lighting you fire. Allow the fuel to glow and steadily build up to a healthy flame.

The paper will eventually burn out and the kindling should be burning without any further assistance. At this point, you can add extra fuel, taking care not to smother the fire as you do so. When the fuel is well alight, you can start to restrict the primary air flow and if you are using wood, you can shut it the entire way. If you are using coal, however, the primary air vent should never be closed entirely as coal burns better from underneath.
As a rule of thumb, fires need plenty of ventilation when they are getting started, but will burn longer and more efficiently if air is restricted once the burn is underway.

Air vents on your stove allow you to control the intensity of your fire by increasing and decreasing the air supply to your fuel.

The primary air vent at the base of the stove draws air into the firebox, which provides a steady supply of oxygen to ignite the fuel. This is controlled either by a dial or a slider, which is usually marked with +/- symbols to indicate whether you are increasing or decreasing the air supply. The greater the supply of air, the more powerfully your stove will burn, so this vent is typically opened when you are starting or refuelling your fire, to help the stove reach a high temperature as fast as possible. Once a wood fire is established, the primary air vent can be closed and the secondary vent left open to give the fuel a source of air from above, which is how wood burns best. For coal fires, the primary vent is always left slightly open, as coal-based fuels burn best from below.

The secondary air vent control can be found at the top of the stove and looks much the same as the control for the primary air vent. This secondary air vent serves two different purposes: firstly, to allow a supply of air from above so that wood can burn effectively, and secondly as an ‘airwash’ system which passes air over the glass of your stove window to prevent soot from settling. The airwash helps to keep your glass clean, so you won’t have to clean your stove window so often.

In Clean Burn models, the secondary vents may have inlets at the lower rear of the stove which allow air to be partially directed into the base of the stove and heated up. This air rises to the top of the stove, past the baffle plate, and descends over the window glass as an airwash. This pre-heated air assists in igniting any unburnt gases in the combustion chamber, which burn at a higher temperature than conventional multi fuel stoves can achieve. This process enables a cleaner burning process and lower emissions. DEFRA approved stoves will never allow all air to be shut off from the stove as this is vital to the clean burning process.

Whenever you use your stove, remember that the door should always be shut once the fire has been kindled. Leaving the stove door open will severely decrease the efficiency of your stove system and will also cause excessive smoke.

How do you do it?

Open the air vents and allow the fire to burn brightly before adding any new fuel. When the fresh fuel has been added, you may need to wait a couple of minutes until it has fully caught alight. Once the fire is fully re-established, the air vents can be closed. This process can be difficult to get right first time and it may take some practice until you learn how your stove and flue best respond when re-fuelling.

How often?

Refer to the product manual for estimated refuelling times for each type of fuel suitable for use in your stove. Before re-fuelling, it’s important to riddle the grates and empty the ash pan. This will allow an increased flow of air from below, which is required to burn coal effectively. Riddling grates can also become damaged or distorted if they are kept too hot, so it’s important to do this regularly whatever fuel you’re burning.

Never overload your stove. Filling your stove with too much fuel will prevent it working effectively, and can cause accidents such as logs falling onto the hearth or stove glass smashing on an over-packed log bed. Overloaded stoves can also create fires which are too large for the firebox. These fires can get out of control and ignite creosote in the chimney, massively damaging the stove interior in the process.

Don’t leave stoves unattended for long periods of time and never leave them running overnight.

What kind of fuel?

If you are unsure which types of fuel are suitable for use with your stove, refer to the supplied user manual or contact the manufacturer.

The list of suitable fuels may be further reduced if you live in a Smoke Control Area. The DEFRA website provides a comprehensive list of all approved smokeless fuels suitable for use in these locations. You will only be able to burn wood in a Smoke Control Zone if your stove is registered as DEFRA exempt. Ordinary ‘household’ coal is not allowed in Smoke Control Areas as it produces a lot of soot when burned.

Household coal is generally not a good choice for stoves even if you don’t live in a Smoke Control Area, because it produces large quantities of volatile smoke when burned which can cause damage to the stove flue. Coal and wood should never be burned at the same time because the moisture in the wood can combine with the sulphur in the coal to create a harmful solution which can damage your stove.

It may be tempting to throw any wood you salvage directly onto the fire straightaway, however this can have a negative effect on your stove system. Burning wet or unseasoned wood can encourage the production of tar, which will clog up your stove and chimney. It can also be hazardous to burn chemically treated wood as this may release harmful acidic gases which can corrode the inside of your stove, flue and chimney.

You should only burn dry, seasoned wood which has been cut and stocked for at least 12 months. You can season your own logs at home by creating a sheltered woodpile that is protected from rain, but never cover it completely as a good air supply is needed to allow the wood to dry thoroughly. Wood is described as ‘seasoned’ when it has between 20-25% moisture content and anything above this is referred to as ‘wet’ or ‘green’ wood. A moisture metre is useful if you want to season your own wood as you can check the moisture level of an individual log before placing it on the fire.

Different woods have different properties; some may function better as kindling due to their higher burning temperatures, whereas others may be better as a main fuel source because of their longer burn times. Nothing is more nostalgic than a familiar aroma and each variety of wood has a different scent which can lift your enjoyment of your stove to another level.

Removing ash

Removing ash from your stove is one of the most important stove maintenance tasks and should be done frequently. This is a quick and easy task that can be made even simpler by keeping an ash bucket nearby. The ash pan should be emptied after every use or during use if a lot of ash has built up.

Some models come with an operational tool which is required to empty the ash pan during operation. The tool grips the edges of the pan and provides a cool handle that allows you to move the pan even when it is hot. Always use gloves when emptying the ash pan as the pan and the ashes may be hot, even if the stove has not been burning for several hours. Be careful when disposing of ashes! Even if they look cool to the touch, this may not always be the case – there may still be some embers smouldering under the surface. Dispose of them carefully and in a place where stray live ashes will not cause a potential fire hazard.

Coal and wood burn differently and multi-fuel stoves have adapted so that both fuel types can be used. Wood burns best on a bed of ashes, but coal needs a supply of air from beneath to burn effectively. Inside your multi-fuel stove you will be able to see a rotating grate that sits beneath the fuel – this is known as the riddling grate. Most multi-fuel stoves have a mechanism on the front of the stove that twists the riddling grate, allowing the ashes to fall into the ash pan below, increasing the flow of air. Because the front of the stove gets hot, you will need to use a riddling rod to operate the mechanism. If your stove has a riddling grate, it will be supplied with a riddling rod. This will be a key tool if you will mainly be using coal to fuel your stove.

Cleaning the baffle plate

You should clean your stove’s baffle or throat plate at least once a month. The baffle plate is a metal plate that sits over the firebox, blocking off the chimney and encouraging heated gases to stay for longer in the firebox. The baffle plate is key to increasing your stove’s heat output and efficiency, but due to its exposed location it must be cleaned regularly and inspected for damage. If you are not confident doing this yourself, always get a professional to do it for you. Cleaning the baffle plate is especially important if you will be burning sooty fuels such as coal, because the soot builds up quickly and can re-combust on the baffle plate if left unchecked. Always wait until your stove is fully cooled before removing the baffle plate for inspection.

Keeping your stove well-maintained is the best way to ensure it operates at peak efficiency and has a long service life. It is important to get your chimney swept at least twice a year to prevent the accumulation of creosote and soot, as these by-products can create chimney fires. This is particularly critical if you will be burning wood or household coal. Anthracite and other smokeless fuels deposit soot and creosote at a slower rate than these fuels, but it is still important to have your stove swept regularly.

Ideally, you should have your chimney swept before the start of the colder months, when your heating will be used more regularly, and after any long period where your stove has not been in use, for example after the summer holidays. Refer to your stove manual for full details on the recommended maintenance procedure for using your stove after a summer break. It’s also a good idea to have your stove swept after the peak of the heating season, so that the accrued waste can be removed as soon as possible.

HETAS accredits both stove installers and chimney sweeps, so you can use their website to find a trusted professional in your local area no matter what job you need doing. Always have your stove serviced annually by a HETAS accredited installer to keep your stove in top working order.

If you are planning to clean the inside of your stove, always make sure that it has fully cooled before beginning. The interior can then be dusted down with a soft brush, which is the perfect time to inspect the other elements of the stove to make sure they are in good condition:

• Check the firebricks and glass for cracks
• Inspect the door rope seal for any wear
• Check the grates and baffle plate are in good order
• Look for any cracks or openings appearing on the stove body

In the case of any cracks appearing on the stove body, stove cement can be used to seal gaps and is heat resistant to temperatures up to 1250 °C, although it should only be used on surfaces which are free of rust, grease and oil. The glass in your stove door should only break after heavy handling – for instance after slamming the door or stabbing the window with the poker. The window should not break because of the fire’s heat.

If your stove needs a part replacing, give us a call. Alternatively, the stove manufacturer will be able to supply you with the necessary parts.

A large part of the appeal of stoves is the way they draw the whole family together, to admire the flickering flames and dancing fire. However, whilst you enjoy your fire, it’s important to keep in mind safe operating practices that will help prevent accidents. A stove guard placed in the front of the fire is a useful accessory, preventing debris falling out of your stove and rolling across the floor. It’s especially important to fit your stove with a guard if it’s in a carpeted room or near to soft furnishings.

If you have small children or pets, you may want to purchase a nursery guard instead. Nursery guards are deeper than stove guards and have narrower gaps between the bars. This keeps children at a safe distance and prevents them touching the stove’s hot surfaces. Many nursery guards can be fixed to the wall as an added precaution, granting additional peace of mind to stove owners who are also parents! Guards are a common sense precautionary measure that will keep your stove surround as safe as possible.

It’s not a good idea to leave your fuel and kindling loose around your stove because it constitutes a fire hazard – and, of course, it’s messy! Thankfully, the sky’s the limit with fuel storage options as there are plenty of styles and methods to choose from. Woven baskets create a cosy, rustic feel with their attractive natural materials which complement many home interiors. Buckets provide a similarly charming appearance and are great for storing coal and anthracite. Log stores offer a more permanent solution and make an impressive room feature in-and-of themselves. Browse our range to find the perfect fuel storage option for your home, whatever your interior design scheme. On the side of your stove you’ll find a metal plate which will tell you how far away your combustibles must be to maintain a safe distance from the stove. Always store your fuel in a safe place beyond the reach of sparks or the intense heat of your stove.

There is plenty you can do on a day-to-day basis to keep your stove operating at peak performance. If you’re planning to do some stove maintenance, remember to always wear a glove to avoid nasty burns. Most stoves come with a safety mitt so don’t forget to put it on, even if you’re doing something as simple as adjusting the grates. A riddling rod is frequently included in stove sets which allows the riddling grate to be operated from the exterior of the stove. When the grates are riddled, they rotate to allow ash to fall into the pan below, which keeps oxygen flowing beneath fuels such as coal, which need a supply of air from below to burn effectively.

Ash and debris can build up in and around your stove, so a hearth tidy or stove companion set is an essential purchase to help you keep on top of routine maintenance. Hearth tidies are a shovel and brush combination set which allow you to quickly dust around your stove and keep it clean. Companion sets often include a set of tongs, a poker, a brush and a shovel and will likely be the set of tools you use most often. They also allow you to remain at arm’s length from your stove as you tidy, which is essential for basic safety.

Your stove should be serviced annually to keep it in working order and your chimney should be swept at least twice a year if you are primarily burning wood and standard household coal. If you are using approved smokeless fuel, you should have your chimney swept at least once a year. Sweeping your chimney removes soot and creosote which are waste products created from burning fuel. These by-products will prevent your system from working at peak efficiency, and can also lead to chimney fires if left to build up. Always have your chimney swept by a professional.